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WORLD FOOTWEAR | JULY/AUGUST 2012
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3] Technical leather
development and
improvements
Developments and improvements
occurred across the whole spectrum of
leather manufacture for a variety of
reasons. Inevitably, advances in
control and production systems led to
greater leather consistency. As the
cause of variations that previously
existed was largely eliminated, faults
that occurred in production could be
more readily identified and rectified.
This was not just a case of correcting a
problem — it meant that the cause of
the problem could be identified and
eliminated. The role of the senior
technician changed from a largely “fire
fighting” role to the management and
operation of well designed systems
that avoided problems and variation.
And, from the more secure and
consistent base that was developed,
the scope for product development and
refinements became possible.
THE ENVIRONMENT
Increasing
environmental
awareness,
largely
driven
by
mandatory limits for discharge of liquid
effluents and charges based on volume
and composition was also a driver of
innovation and improved efficiency. It
was soon recognised if pollution was
reduced at source by better chemical
processing, there was both a saving in
materials consumed and a reduction in
waste that required treatment.
But a more efficient process not only
demanded a scrutiny of chemical
processing, but also a more uniform
substrate from machine operations,
better chemical processing equipment,
and better process management.
In post tanning stages, many tanners
changed to systems where the hair was
removed intact instead of dissolved.
Replacement products were found or
developed for substances that were
considered hazardous or difficult to
treat. Best available technology was
employed and tanning processes
became more efficient. All caused a
further rationalisation of processes and
tightened control.
WATER RESISTANT LEATHERS
The development of water resistant
leathers was driven by the military
needs to maintain armed forces in
effective combat condition in wet
conditions. Many attempts were made
to produce footwear that not only kept
feet dry, but also minimised any
increase in weight from water
absorbed to avoid fatigue, and retained
a high level of water vapour
permeability. The comfort demanded
was similar to normal footwear
comfort, and the properties needed to
be longlasting and reliable.
These aspirations only became
possible with the development of
specialised fatliquoring products from
the chemical sector. These enabled
military demands to be met technically,
but also met good quality aesthetic
standards.
This was not a simple case of
modification of an existing process by
the addition of a product: many
technical requirements were needed at
earlier stages of manufacture, and for
reliable performance there was little
room for error. The need for attention
to detail and control was emphasised
and raised to higher levels.
Considerable advances had also
occurred in the automotive sector that
indirectly influenced footwear leather
manufacture. In this situation, a
traditional material, originally based
on the needs for furniture leather,
needed to match the performance of
synthetic materials. This caused a
massive shift in the manufacture of
automotive leathers to meet demands
based on engineering specifications.
New test methods demanded by the
automotive sector ensured that the
product would survive harsh conditions
that might be experienced throughout
the lifetime of the vehicle. This
demanded
very
significant
developments in physical performance,
including ageing tests, and closely
defined shape retention of components.
Driven by the demand for chrome
free leathers by some automotive
manufacturers, new products and
techniques were developed. Also, a
need to limit volatiles in enclosed
spaces led to developments in
formaldehyde free leathers, better
removal of inherent fats associated
with raw hides, and upgraded
fatliquors to minimise volatiles that
might cause fogging effects.
All of these demands have added to
pressures on the chemical and
finishing sectors to develop higher
performance products that address the
long-term demands of components
within an extremely high value
product. Many of these refinements
have now found applications within
footwear leather manufacture.