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example, the size of a calf skin is now
far greater than years ago because both
control and technology has improved.
Calf-like characteristics that were
limited to smaller skins can be
developed in skins that are more
mature.
Downgrading due to excessive
growth in neck areas and drawn grain
in belly parts – once a very common
feature of upper leathers – has also
diminished, and grain surfaces are
flatter and better extended. These
improvements are not just due to
better chemical processing, but more
to better equipment and improved
control systems.
LOOKING IN THE CRYSTAL BALL
Plant, machinery and control systems
are now very advanced and it may be
that their development for practical
purposes is mostly complete. There is
also a massive choice of chemical
products already in use that can create
a vast range of effects, although the
availability of some of these will
change due to environmental
pressures. Moreover, there are issues
concerning sustainable manufacture,
so new raw material sources will be
explored and developed by chemical
providers. Improvements will inevitably
continue, but radical change is unlikely.
It may be that more natural products
become
involved
in
leather
manufacture. A trend that has already
started is to find natural colouring
materials as an alternative to synthetic
dyestuffs. These include plant and root
extracts, but also stains developed by
bacteria. In this event, and probably in
line with other natural fabrics, greater
tolerance will be required in areas of
light fastness and rub resistance.
Developments will also occur
throughout wet processing to produce
cleaner pelts which should also
provide a better base for dyeing and
even less finishes.
Chromium based tannages have a
long proven track record of both
durability and safety in wear – now
more than 100 years – nevertheless,
these leathers are always under some
form of scrutiny. It may be that leather
manufacture consumes less than one
percent of chromium extracted, that it
is the seventh most common metal on
the planet. But, due to often
unbalanced
confusion
between
chromium salts in the trivalent state as
used in leather manufacture and the
hexavalent state, a pressure for
change exists.
Despite considerable research there
is no practical alternative to chromium
tanned leathers in regard to the ability
to resist shrinkage under conditions of
high temperature and moisture –
conditions not actually required in
footwear use. Important questions
being raised are “do we need leathers
that are far more durable and
longlasting than other footwear
components?” and “does the ability to
be break down at the same time as the
other components provide advantage?”
The focus is shifting towards tanning
products and products that make
quality leathers and comply with the
objectives of sustainability. New
systems are offering interesting
opportunities, but to date none meet
the perhaps over-engineered standards
of chrome tanned leather.
It is certain that the success of
leathers available in 25 years time will
be driven by the needs of footwear
manufacturers, but also by their
willingness to change. A good question
for footwear manufacturers is “do you
really need this combination of high
temperature /moisture resistance
found in chromium based tannages
within footwear manufacture?”
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WORLD FOOTWEAR | JULY/AUGUST 2012
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