Basic HTML Version
L
ast winter’s relatively mild conditions across the
northern hemisphere benefited a number of
industries, including retail. Many reaped the rewards
as shoppers arrived at the high street to buy spring
collections earlier than normal. Consumers were also said to be
in a mood more conducive to spending, with no freezing fogs
to dampen the spirits.
Manufacturers and retailers of winter clothing and shoes,
however, were less thrilled with the thermostat, as collections of
boots and heavy outdoor shoes languished on the shelves, and
coats, cardigans and jumpers sold in vastly fewer quantities
than in previous years. Sales of seasonal footwear were
reported as being down and financial analyst Euromonitor
noted that apparel retailers had to strongly discount stock at the
end of 2011, which put pressure on them going into the new
year.
For companies whose winter ranges are merely a part of the
whole, the uplift in spring sales covered the losses to a large
extent. But for others, such as Deckers, the main manufacturer
of Ugg boots, the mild weather led to a slump. “We think the
exceptionally mild weather created a tough selling environment,
which dragged down sales and hurt pricing in the first quarter,”
the company stated.
This not only had an impact on profits, but was also said to
have affected the price of sheepskins in Australia – and raises
questions over how cautious buyers will be when ordering this
time around.
The footwear industry is a global one, and unsold stock has
a knock-on effect down the chain. When leather buyers noticed
a lack of appetite for hides and skins at the beginning of the
year, they suggested this could be linked to a less urgent need
for winter footwear for winter 2012 than in previous years. In
June,
WLBW
, an electronic market intelligence update for the
leather supply chain, reported: “Talking to tanners today, they
are feeling the pain of the warm winter (2011-2012) as hardly
any are reporting reordering for the next winter season. No
surprise, thinking of the unsold stocks from last winter.”
Gracing the catwalks
So what does this mean for the humble boot – a return to
autumn/winter 2011-2012 styles and a slumping order book?
Well, not if many designers have their say. Long boots had a
dominant presence in the recent autumn/winter catwalks –
where dominant means strength, rather than ubiquity – but
they are definitely on the radar this year.
London-based Richard Braqo’s boot designs are a case in
point: strong, sleek and skyscraper high. The up-and-coming
designer infuses his debut collection with an undeniable
panache – and his talent has not gone unnoticed. He was the
first recipient of the Cesare Paciotti Accessories Award for shoe
design at Parsons School of Design in New York in 2009 and
subsequently honed his craft working with artisans in the Le
Marche shoe producing region in Italy. He went on to work with
Paciotti on a collection that sold in New York to Saks and
Barneys. “I learnt about balancing my designs with that of an
existing brand, working with Italian shoemakers and the
incredible amount of dedication and time that goes into
bringing one's vision to light,” he said of the experience.
His collection features four types of boots: three ankle length
and a dramatically sculptured thigh high boot with a platform
39
THE LONG AND SHORT OF IT
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2012 | www.footwearbiz.com
Footwear brands are worried that last winter's mild conditions will deter retailers from
ordering high volumes of winter boots this year - but designers have other plans.
Richard Braqo’s signature pearled spear pierces through a
delicately folded wrap across the sides of each of these suede
platform boots.
The long and short of it