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regulations. Shoe manufacturers do well to pay as much attention to the health and safety of their products at all stages of manufacture as they are required to do for their employees.

Like a human body, a damaged shoe may be repairable but, it too, will never the same as a perfect one. Major damages mean expensive rejects so the work force at all levels must be trained to regard quality as equally important as productivity. Failure to do so will encourage a ‘don’t care’ attitude which, can in turn, lead to major problems affecting long-term sales and the future of the brand or company.

The aim of is course zero defects. This however, is a tough target and there will always be some need–however slight–for camouflage and concealment. A shoe leaving the lasting and making department may look a little sad and exhibit the odd knock incurred during its journey through the all the complex stages of manufacture needed to produce it. The finishing department’s function is to transform its appearance such that an eagle-eyed examiner in the customer’s warehouse can find no fault with its appearance. Remember, the all important end purchaser needs to be delighted with the shoes as they come out of the box.

The first operation is usually the insertion of a sock. This is an important item for a variety of reasons. Firstly, it will cover the shankboard frequently used to reinforce the seat and waist of the insole and any lasting tacks that may have been used in those areas. Secondly, it provides a clean inside to the shoe and, thirdly, it states the retailer’s brand or the name of the manufacturer. An attractive and accurately located sock therefore plays an important aesthetic part in the overall appearance and presentation of the shoe.

Where tacks have been used in the construction, it is good practice for the operator to check visually and to feel ‘carefully’ with their fingers around the insole before the

sock is inserted. While the points of correct length tacks should be buried in the top surface of the insole, there can be the occasional one that for some reason has not been properly clenched. The tack point is either cut off with a pair of long handled wire cutters or hammered down. An adhesive specially formulated from compounded latex is the best adhesive for attaching socks. It will have a ‘slippery’ feel and a slow drying time so that the sock can be adjusted after insertion to ensure it is correctly located. The sock itself will often have a foam rubber pad on its underside as added protection and comfort for the heel of the foot.

The next operation is cleaning the shoe. This will usually be done by hand using a soft cloth. The cleaning fluid or wash must be selected to suit the leather finish and trials made on deliveries of new upper materials to ensure it will not cause any damage. Small pieces of sponge or crepe rubber–and occasionally a dull knife–can be used to remove any stubborn blobs of adhesive. There are three main types of cleaner:

• Water-based and containing a mild soap or detergent (stronger formulations may also include ammonia or alcohol)

• Solvent-based containing a light petroleum spirit such as ligroin (solvents must be used in a sealed non-spill container and adequate care taken to ensure good air circulation and extraction)

• Silicone cream which combines cleaning with a polishing effect

When the shoe has been cleaned and all surplus marks, blemishes and scars removed, it is examined for any loose areas in the leather. If any are found, they are usually at the inside of the waist and can be given a blast of hot air using a hand gun to remove any creases or

Over roughing around sole edge. Adjust track of auto-rougher and ensure brush If not in a flex position apply wax with a hot knife

is sharp or retrain manual roughing operator. and paint over with fine brush.

Surplus adhesive on upper. Adjust track of auto-cementer and/or train operator Remove with crepe rubber or blunt knife and

to remove surplus adhesive when still wet. repaint if surface finish is removed.

Wrinkles and pleats at toe. Check toe band fit on forepart laster Hot blast to reduce pleats and apply matching

and/or review leather quality and/or coloured wax on minor creases. retrain lasting operator if needed.