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wrinkles. This requires careful control, as too much heat or prolonged application may burn the leather. Excess thread ends left from upper stitching can be removed at the same time using a small naked flame. This is a small but key operation as not only do ragged thread ends look bad but may also cause the end customer to think the stitching is coming undone.

The topline of a ladies shoe is often distorted during last slipping, particularly where solid (non-hinged lasts) lasts are used. The next task therefore, is to reshape or reform the quarter area of the shoe. Here, the back part is clamped into the hot mould of a quarter reforming machine and then transferred to its refrigerated mould to set the shape. An appropriate dwell time in both the hot and cold stations, produces a firm and well-moulded top line, which enhances the final appearance of the shoe. A tight ‘clip’ on the topline of ladies shoes is also a major aspect of fit and of keeping the shoe on the foot, so this operation is extremely important.

This an essential task to satisfy both customer and legal requirements. These will typically be price stickers and labels showing composition of the upper, lining and sole. There will doubtless be other regulatory requirements over time and, whatever the labelling concerned, care must be taken to ensure the correct labels are attached and all rules met.

Finally, a clear spray dressing is applied to give an appropriate finish to the shoe. This must again be selected to suit the leather finish in order to ensure good adhesion and avoid any blooming or other adverse reaction. Water resistant sprays can also be used on delicate leathers such as suede and nubuck to help resist staining.

Glace kid and goat leathers can be finished using casein/formaldehyde preceded by cleaning with a mild soap solution. Waxy leathers usually require no cleaning but will benefit from a little polishing wax or cream. Textiles are best left with as little interference as possible and, if any cleaning is required, a gentle cleaning agent should be used sparingly after careful testing to make sure it will not damage the fabric.

Antiqueing is a special technique used mainly on brogue designs. A dark wax cream containing aniline dyes is applied with a cloth or sponge and worked into the punch holes, which are the feature of the design. The shoe is then polished on a rotating cloth mop, which removes surplus colour, and leaves an attractive two-tone effect around the punching.

factory are to the requisite standard of quality and presentation. A person chosen to be a final examiner has usually worked in all or most of the earlier departments and has an intimate knowledge of their manufacturing procedures. They will also probably be approaching the last seven or eight years of a working career and have a lifetime of experience in the industry.

Ideally, in recognition of their vast experience and the considerable responsibility placed upon them, they should be made a staff member and paid a commensurate fixed salary. They must also be given the authority to act as the final arbiter of quality in the finished product. In turn and because of their knowledge, experience and the trust placed in them by senior management, they will command the respect and confidence of the entire workforce.

Examination is a vital part of the ‘prevention is better than cure’ approach, so it is a valuable quality control procedure for the final examiner to record any rejects and the contributory cause. Department heads should meet briefly each day to examine rejects and consider what preventative action should be taken in future. The final examiner will be a key person in these discussions. An analysis of the causes of rejection should be examined by management each week as part of the aim to achieve zero defects. A reject is a lost sale and replacement can also lead to missed delivery schedules which will irritate the customer.

Many retail organisations operate a ‘sealed sample’ system, whereby they retain one half of the sample pair and the manufacturer, the other. These samples are the quality benchmark for every pair of shoes that passes through the examiner’s hands. Only when the final examiner is completely satisfied should they be released. They can then be wrapped and boxed with the assurance that the next person to see them will be a satisfied customer.

Many international brands on the other hand, either employ roving examiners who go from supplier to supplier checking all aspects of quality or they have similar people working alongside supplier personnel on a permanent basis. This change in attitude from the traditional adversarial attitude whereby the manufacturer often felt the retailer was always trying to ‘move the goal posts’ of quality at the former’s expense to one of co-operation in a common goal has been one of the more positive things to come out of globalisation. The fact that there are far fewer factory rejects and customer complaints than in the past has proved beneficial to all concerned. Despite all the efforts now taken to ensure quality, people in shoe factories are human beings and mistakes will inevitably occur from time to time. The finishing department with its final examination function is therefore likely to remain with us for a long time as a longstop if nothing else.